Dover Island - First Day of 2011

On Sunday a large crew of Halifax climbers headed out to Dover Island for the first time in the 2011 season. The weather was finally dry, but slightly on the cool side. With the retirement of Norm, we now have a new boat "captain" and a new boat launch - which seems like it is going to work out fairly well.

I was able to put up a couple of new problems, as well as get on the good old classics. The first new problem, Camaro Crash Helmet (V8), climbs a steep overhanging bloc just opposite the White Trash roof area. The problem is essentially two, big moves - the first, jumping to a pinch on the right corner, followed by a powerful bump to a jug. This one is still awaiting a second ascent to get some sort of consensus on the grade. The second problem I did was a link-up: Start on White Trash (V8) and then climb into the second part of Horizontal Matter (V11). I think this one is also probably somewhere in the V11 range. It's not a stellar line by any means, I was just looking for something new to try. I named the link up White Trash Matters (V11).

Ben on the First Ascent of Camaro Crash Helmet (V8)
photo: C. Stamp

Camaro Crash Helmet (V8)
photo: C. Stamp

Camaro Crash Helmet (V8)
photo: C. Stamp

Scott trying Camaro Crash Helmet (V8)
photo: C. Stamp

Mick on White Trash (V8)
photo: C. Stamp

Ben Q playing the part.
photo: C. Stamp

Chameleon

Chameleon was Nova Scotia's first and only 5.13 sport route for many years. Sean Cassidy first climbed the route in 1999. The route went unrepeated for 12 years.

Here is what Sean said about the route:

"When did I put it up? ....when you were knee-high to a grasshopper. Ha!ha!

Nov.22/99 was the date. I think Therien belayed me. Good temps.

Almost sent it earlier that year (got through the first two cruxes with a taped split tip), but my finger tape slipped off when I was in the middle of the top slab crux. Blood doesn’t provide good friction, as it turns out.

I bolted it in spring/summer 99 (pretty sure). It took me about 3 frustrating visits to bolt it (at that time we had to rent drills and their batteries totally sucked), which was a major motivator for our work in getting a drill for CNS."

Needing a little change from working my usual projects, I made it a goal to repeat the route. Ben Smith and I worked the route this past Saturday and then went back an both made ascents of the route last night - the first repeats.

Now I am going to move on to a couple of unclimbed sport projects in the Halifax area. Maybe we will find the areas first 5.14....

Tour of our New Apt

A few photos of our new apt we moved into about a week ago:

Ktichen/Living Room on first floor


Office


Bedroom


the stairway

Rumney Photo Dump

Roger's rope management skillz at work


Roger finishing off a crimpy 5.11c at the 5.8 Crag


Krissy


Shinny new rope






Scott on Serial Killer 5.11c


Ben on Parallel Univers 5.14a - it was not to be after
three split tips in one red point attempt


Parallel Universe at the Monster's of the ID crag


Roger finishing off Social Distortion 5.12b after only a few attempts




Krissy and the D'Acres Farm's baby chicks


They had pigs too...


Ben on Eyeless in Gaza 5.12b at Sundown Ledges near North Conway, NH


Eyeless in Gaza - one of the best 5.12's in New Hampshire


Scott on Eyeless in Gaza




Fueling up


Racking up - yes Scott and I did do a couple
pitches of trad climbing on Cathedral Ledge
during our "rest" day


Bombardment on Cathedral


Our home for the week






Roger and Samantha




Krissy during an epic battle against pump on Serial Killer 5.11c


Scott at the top of Venus on a Halfshell 5.12c




Ben on Venus on a Halfshell 5.12c


Ben on Venus on a Halfshell 5.12c


Scott during one of his many oh so close
attempts to send Venus...also an epic battle


Bonsai


Parallel Universe attempt


Emile nearly sticking the crux of Dodge the
Lemons 5.13d


Emile on the upper part of Dodge the
Lemons - i'm sure he will send next day on


The knee bar rest after the initial V8ish
boulder problem on Dodge the Lemons


The end of the second pumpy boulder
problem - the red point crux....


It was very entertaining witnessing
Emile's reaction when blowing the
crux when he knew he was so close - so
psyched and mad at the same time


Ben on the start of Dodge the Lemons 5.13d
It is really hard right off the ground, climbing
through a very improbable looking section of
rock


Ben on "Dodge"


Ben on "Dodge" - eying up the next part


Ben on "Dodge" - mid red point crux


The crux throw - quite a wild move


The upper part of "Dodge" - lucky enough to send
second try...


Krissy warming up on Scene of the Crime 5.10b


Scott...